edit - SOLD 07/04/07
Hello all from Texas. Flea suggested I join up and post my rig, which I have listed for sale on some of the other Zuk boards. I've been slowly building it up for about 18 months. Thanks for looking. I hate to leave this project before it's finished, but my family is expanding (3, count them, 3 boys) and I'm simply going to have to get a larger rig. So, it's sell now or sell later. Clear Texas title in prior owner's name. The rig runs and drives but would need a few things to be wheelable.
[Location]
Houston, Texas (no delivery for this price, but throw some on transport and I will work with you)
[Price]
$2500 Firm (for that, you get it all, including the extras below)
[Pics]
For a full gallery (192 pics), go here and you will see where it started and where it is now:
http://www.texas4x4.org/gallery/Samurai[Build thread]
For a complete discussion of everything I've done, go here:
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=7470or here:
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=468[Engine and Electrical]
Stock 1.3L, reportedly rebuilt by prior owner, I have no way to verify this. The only finding I've noticed is light smoke at cold start, which I believe to be the valve guides because it does not happen with 20/50 oil or on warm starts. Oil pressure is around 45# cold at idle. It runs perfectly, however, and I can report on what I've done to it since I bought it in October 2005.
1. Wiring harness completely gone through with all issues corrected and all superfluous sensors no longer needed (Weber setup, etc.) secured but not cut out (including both under-hood and under-dash wiring)
2. All wiring connections soldered.
3. Terminal blocks employed for ground, auxiliary fuse block under hood, all gauge connections, and tail-light wiring (so tailgate is fully removable).
4. Tach, oil pressure, volts, and temp guages in dash (Sunpro)
5. New thermostat
6. Lighting - 4 100W off-road lights wired to work on the factory headlight stalk switch with blue halos coming on with the parking lights, 2 outer lights coming on with LO and all 4 coming on with HI. All lights properly wired on relays.
7. 4 55W rock lights wired via relay to always-hot lit switch on dash
8. New steering rag joint
9. New water pump
10. Electric fan - wired via relay to key-on lit switch on dash
11. Optima red-top
12. New battery tray
13. Sexy snot-green candy powder coated valve cover and sorta-matching sexy snot green oil pan
14. Full Carb rebuild with tuned jetting and intake port, smoothing and polish by Kevin "Sarge" Lafferty at Midwest Performance Carburetors (if you know Zuks, you know Sarge) with hot-water choke and electric shut-off solenoid
15. 22 gallon Summit fuel cell with safety foam, with Walbro FRA-1 electric pump and Edelbrock external fuel regulator with liquid fuel pressure gauge under the hood, wired via relay to key-on lit switch on dash; includes roll-over valve and manual shut-off within driver reach
16. Doug Thorley Tri-Y header and Flomaster 40 exhaust with flex joint (no CAT). The exhaust needs to be finished though - you need to have a local shop weld it up for you or do it yourself with 2 1/4" aluminum exhaust tubing.
17. New distributor cap, wires, plugs
18. New MSD Hi-vibration coil
19. New distributor O-rings (fixes the notorious oil leak)
20. GM 1-wire 105-amp alternator (12si body - new)
21. New #2 welding wire for battery positive and alternator charging line
22. Vapor canister eliminated (not needed with fuel cell and Weber carb)
23. New motor mounts from Petroworks
24. New timing belt and timing kit, along with new Trail Tough timing belt cover
25. New radiator hoses
26. New throttle cable
27. New oil pan gasket
[Interior]
1. New glass installed in gauge cluster
2. Gauge cluster painted flat black, along with column surround
3. Grant GT steering wheel
4. 6-point cage
[Body]
1. Yes, it comes with doors
2. Yes, it has a white-soft top in good condition
3. Skids
4. Comp cut on front fenders
5. Yes it has a windshield and windshield frame (windshield is broken, though)
6. Interior floors Rhino (or something) lined long ago - seems to be holding up well
7. Passenger rear body damage from rock-kissing
[Drivetrain]
1. 31" TSL's, 25% tread
2. Stock zuk axles, locked front and rear
3. Home-brew SOA perches from prior owner
4. Heep leafs in the rear with missing links and RUF leaf swap
5. New shifter sheet installed in transfer case
6. New shifter sheet sitting on bench for transmission (not needed at this time)
7. Trans, clutch and t-case seem to work fine but I haven't torn them down so I can't attest to the internals
[Known Issues]
1. E-brake is not connected
2. Shocks were shot and I tossed them, same for the steering damper
3. Hi-beam dash indicator light does not work
4. Front birfields need to be rebuilt if you plan to keep the stock axles ("Death Wobble" - which could instead be due to worn kingpins or tie-rod ends. I have not torn it down because I was planning to swap axles anyway)
5. Cage Welds - some look booger to me and I would pay attention to them and satisfy myself about their integrity before I did anything insane, if it were me.
6. SOA Perch Welds - PO integrated flat stock as lower shock mounts on the front axle. If it were me, I would re-do this if I were to keep the stock axles.
7. Exhaust needs to be finished (I have the Flowmaster 40 [real, not a knock-off] muffler and the flex joint, just needs the actual tube work done)
8. Rust - 1 pencil-eraser sized hole in the passenger side firewall where the old battery tray allowed cancer to form - I'll throw in a fiberglass kit you can use to fix it if you care; some surface rust elsewhere but nothing of note.
9. Drive-shafts need an extended slip yoke for proper travel - you can make one yourself or buy one for $60 from Trail Tough (this is due to the SOA setup)
10. Transfer case mount bushings - these were shot and I tossed them and replaced them with some old shock bushings, which I wouldn't expect to last long.
11. No hood latch (use pins)
12. Broken windshield
13. No A/C (I completely removed the condensor, but did keep it)
14. Leaky master cylinder - either put in an o-ring kit or swap the new firebird master cylinder I'm throwing in
15. Rear leaf spring front spring shackles - these are boogered due to an ill-advised effort at an anti-wrap bar by the prior owner. I would re-do these before wheeling.
16. Factory fuel gauge will not work with fuel cell due to safety foam inside cell (can't install sending unit)
[Extras]
1. BUILD LIST - I have painstakingly crafted this over two years; it tells you everything I bought, from where and how much. It also tells you where to get anything else you would want for the rig, how much and your options among vendors, as well as links to all relevant "how-to" articles on the web (I also have the field service manual for you.)
2. Dana 60 Rear (M880) - 4.10's and open with drums. This was for a full-width swap. I'm throwing it in. Use it or sell it.
3. Dana 44 Front (Chevrolet) - 4.10's, flat-top knuckles and open with discs, u-bolts and extra hubs (no calipers). Same deal as the D60.
4. Extra Hubs for Dana 44
5. Extra Aisin Hubs for Sammi Axle
6. Extra D44 shafts (1 stub, 1 long-side)
7. Extra jack-shaft (intermediate shaft between transmission and transfer case)
8. YJ Leaf springs (for the axle swap)
9. Chevy Leaf Springs (another option for the axle swap)
10. Extra hood (solid) - the hood that's on it now is bondo-covered, which I hate. This one is solid and straight.
11. Extra tailgate with flush-mount tail-lights and diamond-plate inner - the tailgate on it now is slightly bowed and does not have a diamond-plate inner panel, so this one is "bling"
12. Inner diamond-plate side panels
13. 5 Qt 20-50 oil
14. 2 oil filters
15. Home-made tow-bar (used it to tow the Sammi 500 miles home) - I would recommend trailering, though, if you can
16. $2800 in receipts
17. All the parts I ever pulled or collected for it that were worth keeping (A/C compressor, condenser, gas tank, timing belt cover, etc., etc.)
18. Firebird master cylinder for all-disc swap on the full-width axles
[To be Wheel-able]
To make it wheelable using the stock axles, I think the least it needs is: a) put shocks on it; b) finish the exhaust; c) put on extended slip yokes for the driveshafts [cut and weld in a spacer on the stock ones, or buy the Trail Tough ones]; d) Weld up (repair) the front hangers for the rear leafs; and, e) Rebuild the front Birfs and/or kingpins, which I think are the source of the death wobble.
So, for a man competent with a welder, this would be 1 solid weekend and $200 or so in parts for the exhaust and Birf/kingpin rebuild kits (available on e-bay or the usual Zuk vendors).
