and i and not getting much signal from the computer, when i try to read it with the injector hooked up i get nothing at all..
Make sure to set your meter to volts instead of ohms when you're trying to read it with the injector hooked up. Alternatively, go to AutoZone and see if they lend out noid lights. The noid light is a little lamp with a connector on it; you plug it into the harness instead of the injector and crank the engine. If the light flashes, the computer is at least trying to fire the injector - if not, the computer or wiring are suspect.
any other suggestions?
It's probably worth your time to unplug the connector(s) from the computer and inspect them under a strong light. Every once in a while, the metal contact will get loose in the plastic connector housing, or the contact will get bent. A little careful poking and rebending may save you buying a new computer.
You might also make sure that you have +12 V and ground at the power and ground wires at the ECM.
where would be a good place to find an ECM?
It might be worth a call to the local "generic" auto parts stores (O'Reilly, AutoZone, Pep Boys, Kragens/Schucks, etc, etc) to see what they can do for you. O'Reilly lists an ECM for a '95 4wd 5-speed at $195+$45 core charge. You may be able to get a better price from a Suzuki-specific vendor, but at least you will have some reference.
When I bought a rebuilt ECM from AutoZone for my old Ch-vy sedan, the instructions for the rebuilt one wanted you to measure the resistance between various pins of the ECM connector (harness side) before plugging the new one in. Basically they were trying to make sure that things like the fuel injector, vacuum solenoid valves, etc, weren't a dead short to ground or voltage before possibly frying the rebuilt computer. If your new ECM doesn't come with this, it's probably worth measuring the resistance of anything you can get a spec for at the harness side of the ECM connector before plugging the new one in. (My ECM was intermittent, so I was able to drive the car to the store. I had my meter and tools with me, so I did the measurements and swapped the ECM in the parking lot. I went around the block a few times and then out on the highway - all was well so I went back to the store and turned in my old ECM to get the core charge back. That was with maybe 110,000 miles on the car and I put 50,000 more on it before I sold it.)
and would it be better to convert to a carb set up?
A carb can be easier to fix on the side of the road, but the flip side to that is that you often *have* to fix them on the side of the road. The fuel injection can sometimes tell you what's going to break (tip: the "check engine" light doesn't just mean "your car is old") or tell you what part to change when it's already broken. The injection will be a little better for mileage and a lot better for smog, which you may or may not care about.
Matt
